We started our yearly driving adventure through Europe when COVID restrictions were somehow lifted, but on the other hand, flying had too many restrictions. Probably that was 2021 when we did it for the first time, and that was a crazy adventure. Loads of unknowns, for example, how it would be to drive in the EU with a UK car, how far I could drive in one go with a fully loaded car and two boys who might need WC every two hours for fun.
And so, every year on the boys' school holiday, we go for 6 weeks mixed with work and holidays. Our journey goes through France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Lithuania and Latvia. Altogether, over those six weeks we drove 3733 miles (6007 kilometres), but most of it, of course, was to get to the destination and back. However, we did a few loops here and there.
Łagów in Poland
For the last few years, it was our main pitstop. We also stopped in Poznań and some other places, but Lagow was that one super easy place to stop for a night. This year we decided to explore the place, stay for a couple of nights, and learn what is around here, as on the map we noticed a quite large lake and nice pictures from the city. So, we did.
The centrepiece in Łagów is the 14th century castle (Zamek Joannitów). Theoretically, you can buy a ticket and then get to the very top in the tower of the castle, but the ticket guy didn't speak English, nor did I actually hear him speak any language, but we got that he only takes cash and we didn't have any zloty.
The place is between two lakes with super clear water. In good weather you can rent a boat and enjoy the lake, but we obviously visited on the rainiest day with a proper autumn feeling (which was really welcome after 3 weeks in +30 in the UK).
The city gives off that medieval-style vibe of narrow streets and gates, red-brick buildings, and a really historic feeling with old houses.
There are also loads of places to eat, but our place had a very cosy restaurant with superb food that we stuck to.
Riga in Latvia
This will sound a bit awkward, but I am not a fan of Riga. However, it has its moments for sure. Good parts - Riga is really quiet, as one bloke said many, many years ago: "In Riga, even the trams go by in a whisper." Anyway, the buildings look pretty nice, and the streets are empty (compared to London), and that is on a workday, with some pics taken at 8 am and some around midday. Old Riga is colourful and definitely worth a visit.
If you happen to visit Riga, check Pārdaugava; it has that good vibe. Old Market looks really awesome. Another great thing: most distances are walkable, that is, if you like walking.
A day in Sigulda
Fantastic memories! We started the day with Zērglis. That is a zipline across the Gauja Valley in Sigulda. Dzintars and I flew together, and I played the harmonica on the way across. The guys running it told us that, as far as they knew, nobody had played the harmonica on the zipline before. Pretty cool achievement unlocked 🙂
Video of the zipline is here, and you can see me playing the harmonica on it. The zipline is 1.2 km long, and the speed reaches up to 80 km/h. The view from the zipline is amazing, and the feeling of flying over the valley is unforgettable.
After that, we tried electric karting. It took more energy out of us than expected, and we were all feeling a bit peckish, so we stopped for lunch.
After a solid lunch, what better thing to do than go for a walk? We started at Gutman's Cave, then climbed the stairs and carried on towards Turaida Castle.
Gutman's Cave (Gūtmaņala) is a sandstone grotto near the Gauja River, described as the widest and highest cave in the Baltics. The writing on its walls caught my attention: people have been leaving names and dates there for centuries, and some surviving inscriptions go back to the 17th century. Apparently, wealthy visitors once even paid people to carve their names and coats of arms into the sandstone. You definitely aren't allowed to add your own nowadays.
Then came a proper climb and a good walk to Turaida Castle (Turaidas pils). The first stone fortification was built here in 1214, on the site of an earlier wooden castle. It's a striking sight on the hill above the Gauja Valley, with woods all around it. There's plenty to explore in the castle and grounds. We could easily have spent half a day there if we wanted to really go and check everything in detail. Loads to see and learn.
Mushroom hunting near Ķemeri
What do Latvians do when they suddenly get a strong craving for chanterelles for breakfast? You could, of course, go to a shop and buy some. But it's much better to call your friends, jump in the cars and head for a "secret" spot to find your own.
Our spot was in the Ķemeri area, known for its forests and wetlands. Nearby is the Great Ķemeri Bog, with its little pine trees, dark pools and wooden boardwalk, but we were there for the mushrooms.
By the way, the Great Ķemeri Bog has a brilliant wooden boardwalk that takes you through parts of the bog you couldn't otherwise explore on foot. It's well worth a walk if you're in the area. Google for images; it looks really magical.
Mushroom hunting has several benefits. It's a bit like golf: you're outdoors, walking with friends, and quietly competing to find the most mushrooms, or the best-looking one. Unlike golf, you might also come home with breakfast after an hour's walk.
You do need to know what you're picking, though. As the old joke goes: all mushrooms are edible, but some only once in your lifetime.
Adventure at Cinevilla
This was a real treat from Inese and Dzintars. They took us to Cinevilla, a film studio and outdoor backlot in Slampe Parish, around 15 km from Tukums.
It was originally built in 2004 for the historical feature film Defenders of Riga, about Latvia's fight for independence in 1919. Since then, it has grown into one of Northern Europe's largest outdoor film sets. Apparently, it is the only dedicated studio backlot in the Baltics.
It was such a strange feeling walking through fake cities and jumping from one century to another in a matter of minutes. One moment you are in early-20th-century Riga, with old streets, bridges and a river embankment; the next you find a medieval village, prehistoric-looking huts, a cemetery, or a vampire set. Everything looks real enough from the right angle, but then you look behind a building and remember that it is mostly a film façade.
Cinevilla has been used for quite an impressive mix of Latvian and international productions. A few names you may recognise are Defenders of Riga, Dream Team 1935, The Pagan King (Nameja gredzens), the gothic mystery Raven's Hollow, and the historical TV series Sisi.
To be honest, the photos do not quite give the real impression of the place. You need to walk around it to understand how bizarre it is, and cool at the same time.
Gaiziņkalns
This is the highest point in Latvia, which (drum roll… pause…) is 312 m above sea level. We have never been there, so we wanted to see and explore it. In my head, I imagined something a bit like Box Hill in Surrey. Box Hill is only 224 metres above sea level, but you can easily spend half a day walking around, climbing up and down, and enjoying the views.
Here is the Box Hill viewpoint for comparison:
What we didn't realise is that Gaiziņkalns is 312 metres above sea level, but the surrounding area is already quite high. The hill itself rises by only around 60 metres. So it was more of a gentle stroll than a proper hill adventure.
Been there, got the T-shirt, called it a day.
Don't get me wrong, it is a lovely place, with woods and a peaceful landscape. But our expectations were on a slightly different level 🙂
Madona
After visiting Gaiziņkalns, we decided to hunt for some lunch. The closest city is Madona, so we headed right there. While I didn't snap as many photos as I should have, it's a truly lovely city. We ended up eating at a cosy little place called Bura, and let me tell you that their portions are absolutely massive and incredibly tasty. Highly recommend!
While exploring, we stumbled upon a monument dedicated to Rūdolfs Blaumanis, one of Latvia's most celebrated writers, playwrights, and satirists. Now, I hope I don't offend any literary purists here, but the longer I stared at his statue, the more a sense of profound déjà vu washed over me. It reminded me of somebody.
And then it hit me: He looks exactly like Ned Flanders from The Simpsons.
This comparison will probably cost me a few karma points with the locals, but I could not stop chuckling. See for yourself in the photo.
Balvi
This is a place where we spend considerable time and for a good reason. There are big lakes, and that involves a lot of swimming. By the way, this city is only ~30 km from the border with Russia. Overnight, we got a government-sent alarm, which was not a great experience. All our devices suddenly went full bananas around 2 am, and you can't switch that off. Apparently, some drone flew in and was shot down. Anyway, where was I? Ah, yes, lakes and nice paths around them. Below are some images to give you an idea about the size of the water body.
A quiet detour near Balvi
While doing our roughly 10 km expedition around the lake near Balvi, we spotted a sign saying Ebreju senkapi (Jewish cemetery). Naturally, we decided to take a detour and have a look.
A little way into the woods, we found it: a small Jewish cemetery in a forest clearing. It felt strange at first. Not frightening exactly, just unexpectedly quiet and isolated. There were gravestones standing in rows among the trees, and probably more hidden beneath the grass and soil.
I used Perplexity to help translate one of the inscriptions. It appears to read:
Here lies
the upright and honest man,
Chaim Yoab, son of Yehuda.
He died on the 9th of Cheshvan, in the year 5691.
May his soul be bound up in the bond of life.
If the Hebrew date was indeed 9 Cheshvan 5691, it corresponds approximately to 31 October 1930 in the Gregorian calendar.
What made the place feel even more significant was learning that Balvi once had a substantial Jewish community. Before the Second World War, Jewish residents made up around 19% of the town’s population. Most were murdered during the Nazi occupation in August 1941. The cemetery is therefore not simply an old place in the woods, but one of the remaining physical traces of that community.
Bees
We are helping out Grandad with bees, and this year Ralph stepped in and did the majority of the work as I was busy with my daily work. Fun fact: one bee decided to sit on top of Ralph, and it kind of reminded us of the Ratatouille story.
The End
I wanted to write a quick post with the best moments, but it ended up as a full-scale blog post. I left out Jūrmala, as I want to write about my city in a separate story. Our way back to the UK was one of the best times. We started from Łagów at 5:40 am, arrived at Calais at 4 pm, then took the shuttle train, and at 5:30 pm we were home in London. All that in 13 hours of driving and stops for coffee. Pretty cool!
To soften the comeback and get back into London’s life, we arranged a visit to the theatre - The Comedy About Spies. That was a smart idea and a really funny one too.